Teri Villarreal Dining Table November 28th, 2018 - 04:54:51
I'm gonna make this cherry tabletop, and the first thing in this project was to make the template and the template said. It's really a good thing to do it because you get an idea of how big the table is going to be in the room, and once you have the template, that also helps when you go to lay out your boards before the glue up. I just want to get down in the camera here now. One of the most important things in the project like this is to pick your lumber you're only dealing with the surface. That's the most important part of this project. So I really wanted to put a lot of thought into how the boards lined up. So the way that these boards will be joined is they'll be joined at the sapwood, and what that should do is hide the scene and give this sort of a live edge. Feel so I'm going to do that is I'm going to cut this board in half and flip it over. So I've got an SAP line here and then an SAP line here and then on the outer sides of the table. Well, they'll probably not have any SAP wood, and hopefully, I can get a pretty close grain match. Okay, well, I've ripped all of the boards to width, and then I ran them through the jointer again just to take a little bit off really just to have a nicer glue edge.
Now, the next step is to trace the circle on the boards. I'll do that with a white truck pencil, and I like to do that because, when I mark for the biscuits, I want to make sure that the biscuits aren't too close to the edge, because I don't want to hit one. When I cut the shape out on the bandsaw and now I'll mark the boards in the order that I'll put them together and each one of these marks is an indication line for the biscuit joiner and I like to use a biscuit about every I'd say: ten Inches now I'm ready to start gluing. The top up. I made sure that I've got my clamps ready. I've got my glue and I've got some water, so I can clean up when I finish gluing. The top up. I've also got glue blocks. It's good to have glue blocks for when the clamps on top of the table right, it's not too heavy, but hey. So it's going to be upright. Let me talk like this. They go.
That's one and then you're hanging on the tapes. You get the lifts a little all right super. Well now cut the top glute up and whenever you glue something up, you really have to have a plan. In fact, I knew that what would be home from school around three o'clock, so I waited on this and it was good because I needed that extra hand now be the difficult thing about gluing something up. Are you have to work fast? So if you don't want to be, as stressed out, you could glue the top up in two pieces and then join those two pieces to make your tabletop. But I wanted to have this finished so I could come in and work tomorrow. So tomorrow, I'll come in, take the clamps off cut the circle out and start to shape the top. Well, I came in early this morning. I unclamp the tabletop, give it a quick sanding, I'm getting ready to cut the circle, and basically, what I've done here is I've got the template. I put it back on the table. The tabletop is now upside down, and now I'm going to use the compass that I used to make the template and I'll put the point of the compass into the center of the circle in the center was made when I originally made the circle. So now I'm just going to tap that with the hammer now I'll, put the pencil back into the compass and trace the circle. Now, ultimately, the size of the circle will depend on how far away the point is from the blade because I'll spin the whole table top on that access point. But I wanted to have the circle in place, so I could get the edge of the tabletop right up, snug against the blade and I'll do that.
First, by trimming to the line with the circular saw. I've got the tabletop up on the jig and this took a little work to get to where I am right now and if I get a perfect circle on this tabletop. So, let's hope for the best and see what happens all right. Well, that worked out pretty good, and the next step is to shape the bottom. I'm going to drill a hole in my compass, three inches from the edge of the table and make another circle, and that's basically an indication line. I don't want to go past that line when I'm shaping and what I'm trying to do is. When you look at the tabletop, it will appear to be about a quarter of an inch thick and just give it a lighter feel and you'll also want a reference line on the edge of the table. Yeah. Okay. Well, after about five or six hours of shaping and Sandy, I'm ready to finish the tabletop. I put it to the upstairs of the barn and I'm going to use an oil-based polyurethane and I'm using an oil-based polyurethane. Because I want a really strong finish and the idea here is the table can be used and we don't have to worry about it too much and if maybe every year or two I can lightly sand the top put on a coat or two of water locks And that will bring the tabletop right back to life.