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Concrete Dining Table

June Wilkerson   Dining Table   November 19th, 2018 - 04:28:29

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Make a table using two techniques that are new to me. One we're gonna try to make concrete, look like marble and two we're gonna use an ancient technique from Japan called Shu Gabon to burn the wood to finish it for the table base. I used four by four lumber that is really inexpensive. The wood for this table only cost about thirty bucks. I use Douglas fir because that's what was available for my local home depot, but you can use any type of open grain wood like cedar, pine or Douglas fir. While I planed this wood down to get nice even edges, that's really optional. You can just use the four by four lumber as is, and the four legs for the table base are all going to be angled out at 35 degrees, so just set. My miter saw on 35 degrees and use that to cut all the legs, I left it there then to cut the four pieces that made up the lower part of the table base. You notice here that after I cut one piece, I then use that piece to mark the next piece.

That's identical to me. I find this is better than trying to pre-measure so that you can get the exact cuts to measure if one of your earlier cuts isn't quite exact, especially what the angles this really helps. Then I went to glue up the legs on either side. So each side would have two legs and a centerpiece from the 4x4 that connects them. Since I knew I was gonna burn this. I just used some Craig screws and drove those in to hold the glue in place, rather than messing with a custom clamp for the angle. After the glue dried up, I wanted to add more lateral stability with six-inch lag screws, so I pre-drilled a countersink hole with the four surfeit drilled, a quarter, inch pilot hole and then finally drilled, the six-inch lag screws into the sides of each leg. I was also concerned that the shut-gah Byung process of burning the wood might cause shrinkage that would reduce the hold of the glue. So, on the underside of all four base pieces, I drilled pilot holes that would allow me to go back and secure the base pieces together after the burning process, I used a three quarter inch fortune bit to drill holes where the screw marks were from the glue Up and then used dowels to cover those up, and I cut those off with my Japanese handsaw.

I also used the three quarter inch dowels to cover up the lag bolts in the sides of the legs after the legs are thoroughly dried and I went to glue up the entire base together and here's a demonstration of my number-one rule for glue ups, which Always has a wet rag handy because you will inevitably get some glue where you don't want it here, the exposed middle pieces. I accidentally got some glue there but was able to get rid of it quickly with the wet right after the glue dried. I use my belt sander to get everything level and then took it over to my friend's house in the suburbs to play around with a fire and burn the base. I was a little nervous because I'd never tried this before, but it was actually just really easy. It's really hard to overdo. I was going for what was referred to as an alligator skin. Look where the charred wood remains, and it's basically just blackened. You could also get a lot of different looks with combinations of browns reusing the Rings by using a steel brush to brush it off afterward to get the alligator look. I used a Danish oil finish to soak into the wood and really make sure that it hardened up inside of it, and I was really happy how this came out.

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If you want to walk through tac life tools sent me a couple new levels to use, which I really liked, and I use them to make sure everything was perfectly leveled. Then I cut half-inch pieces of insulating foam to serve as inserts. Inside of the concrete to reduce weight, you just use a razor blade to score them, and then they snap right in half, then I went to mix the concrete again. I use fish stones, GF RC premix, which I love is way better than any of your normal store-bought mixes and I'll have a link to that in the description. So I first mixed the face coat and get the marbled look. What I'm doing is setting aside a couple of small containers of the face, clubs, the niche which is pure white, one, which is really dark and almost black color. And then I'm going to put some Quikrete pigment into the mix and swirl it so that it is an uneven color in the main bucket. Then I'm going to drizzle around the white, concrete mix or in the uneven mix and then add in some dark black mix, and then I just use my hand to swirl around and get a nice swirled.

Look which I was hoping would resemble marble after letting that face coat drive for 30 minutes, or so I made the back coat with glass, fibers and just identical other than those glass fibers, and I did repeated the process here of mixing in some white and then Also, having some squirrels, I'm gon na jump ahead. A second and tell you that when I put the foam in here, which I've normally done, I try to do 3/4 inch of concrete 1/2 inch foam and a quarter inch of concrete on top. It didn't work here. The foam started floating and I had a pan. I ended up having to put two by fours in on the sides to hold the foam down, so I think I saved it, but as a result of me pushing the foam down and actually mixed the colors of the concrete and it came out with more of A cloudy look instead of these sort of striations and veins that I've been hoping for, but I still think it did a pretty good job of getting any sort of marbling. Look, I'd, really love to see. Someone else tries it or maybe I'll, try it again to do this project and not have the mishap with the floating foam inserts and see if you can really get that veiny look and not have an over mix to get the cloudy look like I, you know, And now, for the best part of any concrete project is flipping it over revealing that top and sitting back and seeing what you've got now.

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