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High Top Dining Table

Heidi Mosley   Dining Table   November 30th, 2018 - 03:28:09

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Modern, split-top dining table on modern builds. I'm starting by running for eight foot two by twelves through the planer. This is gonna, remove the rounded corners that most construction lumber has. The tabletop is made out of two pieces, each piece being two by twelves and I'm using a half-inch doweling jig to help reinforce that glue line. It'S also gonna help everything to line up a lot easier when it's time to glue everything up whenever I'm gluing up panels, I like to use aluminum bar clamps they're, cheap, easy to use and help keep everything pretty flat. Another thing to help make sure you've got a flat. Tabletop is to use call boards like what I'm doing here on the sides. They're just scrapping two-by-fours wrapped in packing tape, so that wood glue can't stick to them. They put pressure on the ends of the boards and help keep them from cupping. Once I use the belt sander to clean up my glue lines and make sure everything was flat, I trimmed each end right now. It's eight feet long and I cut it down so that it was seven and a half feet long total.

Then I sanded the tabletop to 220 grit. Oh and don't forget, you need two pieces for the tabletop after I ran my two by twelves through the thickness planer. I also ran all of the two-by-four pieces for the base. I wanted all the pieces to be the same thickness and to remove that rounded edge from the two by fours as well to make the frame for the legs. I cut four pieces to 28 inches long and four more to 35 and three-quarters of an inch long. I used my circular saw, along with a 12-inch speed square as my straight edge, to make the corners of the frame a little bit stronger and look a little bit better, I'm using a rabbet joint. Now you can do this a lot of ways. One way is with a circular saw just make sure your saw, a blade is set to the correct depth and then you can take multiple passes to remove all that material. It helps to use a scrap piece of wood in front of where you're cutting so that the bed of your circular saw has plenty of wood to set flat on now. You're not gonna be left with a perfectly clean joint you're gonna need to use a chisel to clean all of that out, but it's not very much work.

A lot quicker and a lot more repeatable way of doing. This, though, is where the table saw and a miter gauge. However, you choose to cut your joints, make sure once you have all your pieces done, that everything lines up your joints are clean and that the corners are square. Then you can spread out your glue and clamp everything up. I'm using a ratcheting band clamp for the first time, and I was surprised at how easy it is to clamp up a square frame like this. After the glue set. I came back from the top and bottom to reinforce those joints with some 5/16 inch dowels. I just marked the locations for them, made sure and drilled a perfectly straight hole down through the legs, then glued in some dowels making sure to clamp my frame together. That way it couldn't separate. While I was knocking the dowels in after about thirty minutes, or so I got my Japanese pull, saw and trimmed them flush. Then sanded everything, nice and clean, the risers for the legs are cut out of one by fours, which are actually 3/4 of an inch thick after I had them cut to length. I moved over to the bandsaw, drew out a radius on each end and cut it out. I used a scrap piece of wood to help make sure I was holding my piece of wood square to the blade.

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Then after I had it roughed out, I moved over to the oscillating spindle sander to smooth that corner out. My bandsaw cut was pretty rough, but once I had it sanded clean it looked really cool. Then I basically spread some glue out onto the top of my leg, made sure everything was centered, then clamped down that riser piece once it was all dry. I came back with the sander one more time and cleaned everything up and while I did that, I made sure that everything else was sanded really smooth up to 220 grit. I'm cutting four two-by-four stretchers for the tops of the legs. Now I'm going to be attaching these to the legs with pocket hole screws. This is a pretty fancy, pocket hole, jig and I'll leave links to it down in the description, as well as a cheaper version. That'll work just as fine pocket holes are a quick and easy way of attaching things from the underside so that no one will ever see the screws, but it'll still be a strong joint.

The built-in designer templates look great off the shelf, but it's also really easy to customize it to make a really unique one-of-a-kind website, if you're interested in starting a Squarespace website of your own, make sure and follow the link down in the description and use the Code, modern bills, to get 10 % off your first purchase. Thank Squarespace. I used an eighth-inch drill bit to drill a bunch of pilot holes so that later on, I can drill up through those stretchers in the legs and into the tabletop. I cut an 8-inch spacer out of another 2x4 that I could use so that I could clamp my tabletop pieces together and make sure that everything was square and straight then I drilled up through the spacers and into the tabletop overall. I think I put about 40 45 screws through the bottom of this thing. It should be held on pretty strong. I also went ahead and added two more stretchers to the bottoms of the legs. This was not part of the initial plan, but it had a little bit of side-to-side wobble still once I added these stretchers, though it was sturdy.

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