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Mid Century Modern Dining Table

Angie Silva   Dining Table   November 16th, 2018 - 05:04:31

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Make a dining table we're gonna start by making some legs out of three inches by three inches by three. Sixteen seven inches, steel angles. We cut all of the steel with a small angle grinder. This is a powerful tool, but it costs less than fifty dollars. If you want to try to make these yourself, don't worry, we'll post dimension drawings of this design on our website. It's surprisingly easy to cut straight lines with an angle grinder we just like to do it in a few passes, we'll go once over to set a groove and then we'll cut all the way through on the second or third pass. Once all the pieces were cut, we switched to a 40 grit flat, disc and rounded over all the edges. We sanded all the flat sides with an orbital sander to remove dirt and rust. We made some brackets that'll hold the pieces in place and then welded them with our small MIG welder.

The legs are going to be facing in different directions, so you need two of these brackets and you're going to make two of each of the legs with them. A wire brush on a cordless drill is handy for cleaning up all the welds and making sure that you had a good penetrating weld. We drilled holes through the steel so that we could later attach them to the wooden tabletops and we purposefully left the legs. A little bit longer, we were just focusing on getting two angles consistent now we can take a board and use that to mark the desired height and then trim the legs with the angle grinder. Our first thought was to focus on affordability, so we made the first tabletop out of sanded pine plywood. We cut two pieces, the same size and then glued them together. We also added a few screws from the underside now, because the legs have so many cool angles.

To them, we thought it'd be nice to sort of clip off a little bit of the corners of the tabletop, so that would better match the legs. We sanded the edges flush using a belt sander. We then used one and a quarter, inch long screws to screw through the steel brackets and into the tabletop. Now I really like this design and I appreciated that you could make this whole thing for less than 110 dollars, but I felt like we still weren't quite doing the legs justice. So I use my palm router to route a 45-degree bevel around the edges and then stain the whole thing black and now we have a table, that's fit for Darth Vader or a nice family of ninjas. But I want to use this table for the new house that I'm building and I need something a little bit lighter. So I went to Home Depot and got some 3/4 inch thick red oak and ripped some thin pieces down on my table saw. I then reset the fence and ripped down some pieces that were three-quarters of an inch thinner than the first pieces.

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I wanted a table that was about six-and-a-half feet long, so I cut all the pieces to length using my compound. Miter saw this included some wider pieces that are going to make up the majority of the table surface. I started to glue up by gluing four of the pieces that are about two and a quarter inches wide together. I wanted to minimize the amount of sanding that I would have to do so I made sure to also clamp them on the vertical axes to keep them in a plane. I also scraped away any excess glue that came out in between the joints. Now. Remember those pieces there were three-quarters of an inch skinnier. Well, I then glued one of each of those to the outside of this oak beam that I had created the result is I have these two teams that have ledges on either side of them. I wanted to glue this 1 foot wide board in between these two beams, but I want to add some wooden biscuits to it to provide extra strength and my biscuit joiner wouldn't fit in this area, so instead I use a 3/16 slot cutting bit on my Palm router and just cut these notches into this sides so that be able to insert biscuits to improve the strength of the glue up.

I added the glue and the biscuits and then clamped it all together after letting the glue cure a full 24 hours on the centerpiece. I then added 8-inch wide oak boards on the sides. Using the exact same process was applying quite a bit of pressure to clamp all these boards together and get them nice and straight so I didn't want the whole thing to buckle. That's why I applied boards that I clamped to the bottom and top surfaces and also added some heavyweights in the middle. I sanded away any excess glue and evened out the board using my belt sander switch to a nice finished blade on my circular saw set. It to a 45-degree angle and began the process of trimming the edges. Now the seven and a quarter inch diameter blade isn't big enough to cut all the way through the oak beams. So I had to finish the cut using my Japanese pull saw. I then switched my blade back to 90 degrees and trim the edges one more time. I did some more rough sanding with the belt sander. We used an orbital sander to do the finish, sanding first with a hundred and fifty grit pads and then with 220 grit. We finish the table top with three coats of Minwax wipe-on poly that was applied with a rag we spray-paint the legs with matte white spray paint and then screwed them to the underside of the wooden beams.

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