Claudine Horton Dining Table November 08th, 2018 - 03:31:49
How to make a modern outdoor table. I started layout by transferring the measurements of the leg design to a piece of sheet metal that we used as a welding table. I'm using three quarter inch bar stock for the legs, and I used a stick of it to get the thickness of the pieces and find my angles with a layout done. I cut one of the legs to length from a piece of bar stock. Using a cold saw, it has a 15-degree bevel on the top and the bottom for display, and I use that piece to mark and cut the other outside leg as well. I cut a small piece for the top and I marked it and cut it to size using the layout that I'd drawn on the metal sheet and before welding I prepped the pieces where they would join together by grinding bevels on the ends. I used some setup magnets to hold things in place and attack. Well. The pieces together now use a MIG welder with shielding gas in my shop, but I here at maker ranch they had a different setup. It'S the Lincoln Electric well pack, 140, and it has the settings for different material and wire size on the inside of the box, and since we were welding bar stock, we basically use the hottest setting recommended for the wire size of 0.035 that we were using I'll. Have a link to the weld pack 140 and you can check it out below it's a great entry-level machine and it runs off 110 volts.
I started tacking the parts together and I quickly realized that welding bar stock is very different than the tube steel which I've been working on my other two welding projects, I had to spend more time to really let the weld puddle form and penetrate the bar after Welding up the small assembly, I ground the welds flat on one side and then brought in another bar for the full-length crossbar using my layout lines and the top is a tame angle. But that bottom angle is really severe. I cut the easier of the two angles. First, on the cold saw then John jumped in and gave me a hand, cutting the harsh bottom angle with an angle grinder, and we made two of these cross bars. I clamp the first crossbar down and then I tacked it in place and ran full weld beads across each joint. The second crossbar is a little tricky since it needs to be cut in half I raised up the assembly and I position the bar underneath and marked it for the cuts. Both angles are the same, so I set it up on the cold saw and I quickly made the cuts.
I found it easier to tack on the tight fitting small joints here. First, just like the legs, then I went back and tacked and welded the longliner joint is inherently gonna be a little sloppier on the next one. I buttoned it up by welding all the joints, but I didn't do any of the weldings on the inside. The long stretches where they met mainly because I really just couldn't get in there, but even if I did, I wouldn't be able to grind it down and make it look good. I did grind everything else flat though, and the base was shaping up nicely at the top. I used some tropical hardwood decking boards that Ben had left over from another project. I cut the boards to length on the miter saw using three different species called Ghurabaa, Cumaru and tiger wood.
These are really dense, hardwoods and are great for outdoor projects and kind of hard to say. The ports are almost 6 inches wide, not one of the strips to be a little bit thinner and lighter to match the base so rip them down on the table saw to two and a half inches wide. Each I'm working out there in the Joshua Tree desert is hot and windy, but man the scenery, is nice. After the boards were ripped to length. I put a chamfer around the top edges of all the boards using a 45-degree chamfer bit in the cordless router. The board still seemed a little thick at this point at almost a full inch. So I took the mower to the planer and knock them down to 3/4 of an inch thick to match the legs.
Then I moved on to finishing the base here. I just used some self-etching primer. I followed up with a few coats of matte black paint to assemble the top. We laid the metal frame on some soft horses and then put on board in at a time and pre-drilled and screwed them to the center flat bar. I worked my way across the table from underneath until all the boards were in now. One thing I missed on the design here is I should have had two cross members on either in offset by about 6 inches. Since I didn't do this, I had to drill into the angle iron frame to attach the boards to the end. It wasn't a huge deal, but the Panhead screws are just a little more visible on the edge. This way, I attach the boards, with 5/8 of inch screws and used a putty knife to establish a small gap between each board for water drainage when it's outside. After that, we flip the top back over and put it onto the base. I attach the top to each leg through the holes that I drilled earlier to finish it off.