Billie Chan Dining Table November 23rd, 2018 - 03:14:31
The first order of business is on that support level extension since its to half in sheets glued together we're doing the same thing here then we'll cut up the segment's and attach them while that's drying, we're going to get started on the actual ring itself, which is A bit thinner, but we did allow some extra room and we're doing it in six pieces to try and minimize the waste. The ring is five and a half inches deep, with each layer being only half an inch thick. That'S eleven layers with six pieces on each layer, so we've got quite a few pieces to cut out. We did a quick rough layout here, just to make sure everything looked good. The final ring is going to be three-quarters of an inch thick, so these pieces are about an inch heavy and we try to cut these angles between them with the oscillating trimmer tool. But it turned out that the chop saw was really just as good as anything the angles don't have to be perfect anyway since they will be the lap and stagger the joints. We didn't get the gluing process for this first ring on video, but you'll note that it's only four layers out of the eleven total that we're going to have at the end, and that's because of my router bits only two inches deep.
The other ones were coming loose. So it's time to get some Loctite and maybe put a couple nuts on top of those screws. We knew the ring was round from the way that we'd made it, but we took it outside to give it an informal test of strength and rigidity which it passed with flying. Colors had got down very close before it finally dropped that last bit, the support level extensions were rough cut, with a jigsaw now to get a good glue line. We need their inside curve to match the outside curve of the support level, so we put them on the jig here, adjust the trammel in just a little bit and run it around. We did a quick fit test just to confirm and it looks like the effort that we put in paid off because it's right on now it's time to glue on those extension pieces. We have some temporary blocks clamped onto the support level just for alignment and then we're going to run temporary screws in from the outside to clamp that glue line with some careful marks. We were able to get just about every joint, very tight on this project, which is good because it looks nice and it's strong, even though the outside of those extensions has not been trimmed. Yet. I couldn't resist gating the first section of the ring and doing a quick fittest, there's about an eighth-inch gap everywhere, we're aiming for a quarter in the end. So after we trim it up, everything should be in order.
A few quick passes clean up that edge and we're ready to work on the next section of the outer ring. I should clarify that when I say I would a ring, this is the same thing as the skirt piece, so we trace off some of the segments here on this one, and while I was doing this, I got to thinking about how efficient it was with All that waste that comes off in the form of chips, so what we decided to do was measure the weight of this piece, which has 24 segment's 6 for the 4 layers each. This is essentially the next section of the ring and then we're going to compare that weight at the end. I also compared the density of a single half-inch sheet of plywood to two half inches glued together to get an idea if the glue had any effect on it. Since we are going to have a bit of glue in that ring, but it was pretty negligible and probably within the margin of error for the scale after that, we just cut them out, not rough edges off and got down to gluing them. Together again, I switched to using 18 gauges in the center here just to tack it together. It's quick and if you put them in the center you'll never see them and they won't be hit by the router bit either. A good clamp shot never goes awry in the woodworking crowd.
This isn't all my clamps, but it is all of my C clamps and one or two of my bar clamps. So we made a pretty good effort. The trimming process is repeated just like before, but we do bring in that previous ring a couple of times, just to make sure that the dimensions are matching up. One tricky thing about routing on this project was that when you change from the inside to the outside of the Ring, you have to go in the opposite direction to avoid climb cutting. It didn't burn me on this project, but it has in the past. So I maintain my vigilance with that second ring at its final dimensions. I decided to weigh it again and get that waste factor. So in deference to our metric viewers, it started out at 4.2 kilos and ended at about 2.5 kilos, which gives us a 40 percent waste factor, and I feel pretty good about that for this project. Considering that it's round and considering how thin it is, which means that it's you know something is three-quarters of an inch thick. An eighth of an inch on each side adds a third 30 % right there. Potential waste factor, whereas something larger your margin of error, is going to be smaller as a percentage of how big the project is. I spend a fair bit of time watching these brush sparks. While I was rooting so I thought it was only fair to get it on video and share. All three rings are done time to glue them up. Gluing went pretty smoothly in this case. We did push the limits of my clamp collection, but it worked out. We had just enough, and we went around at the end and scraped off the extra glue.
The ring layers fit together very well, but it wasn't perfect. It never is. If I had to do over again, what I would do is to route the inside of the ring the same way in three pieces and then join those together and route the outside all in one pass. The reason I didn't do it here is that that would require me to change the jig for that router quite a bit to make so to make it so that the router is parallel to the floor and then can vary its position vertically. That would give you a great finish on the outside, but it would be a bit more work and I just want to get on with the project in this case, and those clamps are just there to hold it up. They're only temporary. Now it's time to begin modifying the existing table to accommodate this ring design. Clearly, the sliders are much too long, so we need to trim them up and we did a few calculations. You can see our mark here for the distance, but that also needs to have the radius on the outside, and I thought about trying to find the center and do this and do that. And then I realize that I can just drop the ring on the outside and make a perfect mark that way. In addition to confirming all my other measurements, a little jigsaw and sandpaper action get everything, trimmed up and smoothed out nicely, and we can drop the ring back over top and operate the lowest level of mechanism inside that ring.