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Small Dining Table

Jill Davenport   Dining Table   November 05th, 2018 - 08:00:56

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A very small dining table. It'S gonna be about 26 inches by 26 inches and it's gonna be about 31 inches tall. This is gonna be square stock, so I'll get them to join it on two faces and then I'll take it over the planer to get the mill down to one in 1516. So by one in 1516, the reason I did that is that I didn't have material thick enough to do a full two inches and I also did not want to laminate material together, and I could take some time to mill up with a stretcher material. One horizontal piece and two vertical pieces here is the horizontal piece it's gonna be cut down to about 20 inches long and then two of the vertical pieces, which will be about four inches long. These will be glued together and make a nice curved stretcher that blends into the leg to join the stretcher pieces,

What the stretchers dried. I could run them through the drum sander to make sure that all the surfaces were nice and flush. I couldn't do this with the planer, because I have two different grain directions. It will probably get a lot of tear out on those vertical stretchers. Once again, I'm using dowels to join the legs of the stretchers. I've used this on a lot of my builds and I've had no issues with it. So far, it's been pretty simple. For me, each joint is gonna have two dowels that join together. This is gonna be a long grain to long grain joint, but I am using them for alignment purposes so that I have a consistent reveal on all the joints and I made sure to keep these vertical stretchers square so that I could have a nice clamping Surface to make sure that the joint was closed completely with two of the side assemblies glued up, I could begin routing the curve feature of the stretcher, I'm using a little template here that I made with a compass, and I could take it to the bandsaw to get rough cut then I'll move on to the router with a flush trim bit, I had to add a larger sub base to the router so that I could keep its balance on the Aqua positioning of this cut. You can see that there's not much support. I'm only supporting the router on the leg because the stretcher itself is recessed a little too far to have some support for the router.

I installed these corner braces using a live screw with the base all but done. I could turn my attention back to the tabletop and get it flushed up at the drum sander. This is a great application for this opening. A drum sander. This piece right here is about 27 inches wide and was pretty easy to do just making two passes at each height to get the top to its final dimensions. I use the track saw as well as the table saw. This piece ended up being about twenty-five and fifteen sixteenths by 25 and 15 16, which is my new favorite number. I recently got this new Bosch sander that has this anti-vibration stuff and it's a lot easier on your hand and I'm trying to do a better job with dust collection. So I got a new hose and a shop vac and it seems to be working out. Well, one of the other design elements is a slight chamfer on the underside of the top, as well as chamfers on the top and bottom of the legs.

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I like using a slot cutting bit to cut the grooves in the stretchers. These will be used to hold the tabletop fasteners, which will fasten the top to the base. This comes in pretty handy. If you don't have a biscuit joiner. The last step before the finish is to add the Perla Works brand and remember how easy cherry burns. The finish. I'm using is some wipe-on poly the first coat. I use a mix of half mineral spirits and a half wipe-on poly. This is essentially a seal coat and it really behaves like a seal coat of shellac. It'S super thin and gets absorbed really quickly, but I still wipe it dry to make sure that the next coat goes on really smooth. After that, I added two to three more coats of regular wipe-on poly, making sure to wipe dry completely after each coat.

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