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Small Round Dining Table

Erin Fuentes   Dining Table   November 23rd, 2018 - 03:11:51

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Farmhouse style dining table on modern builds. I'm cutting drill a quarter, inch hole for a quarter, inch dowel and then do the same on the bottom side of the tabletop. Once everything was in, I could go ahead and start cut a circle now. The trick to this is doing it in really shallow passes about a sixteenth of an inch on each pass. It's probably not as quick as using a router which I'll show later, but if you don't like routers or don't have a router. This is a great workaround. I just did a few passes cut off the excess with a jigsaw, and then I could come back and do my finishing passes with the circular saw once I had my inside circle cut, I needed to work on the border, which is basically a ring, and I made that first by cutting an octagon out of two by times. Now all the math that you'll need will be in the written article I'll leave a link to the website that I used to figure everything out.

There's a really simple calculator, and it should give you all the information that you'll need. Then I could just go ahead and type my op gun together and lay my tabletop on top of it. Then I marked out the outline as well as a couple reference points and then use the jigsaw to cut that inside radius out on each piece. Then I can just smooth that out with a drum sander attachment for my drill, press and finally use the pocket hole, screws to attach each piece together and each piece to the inside of the tabletop. I used a lot of glue because I didn't have perfect contact everywhere. So I wanted to make sure where I had good contact. I had a really good hold and anywhere that I had any gaps. I used glue and sawdust to fill. I prefer doing this over a wood putty because one it adds a little bit of strength, but two. It actually takes the stain a little bit and really blends in well now the cool thing about this circle, cutting jig is it works with a router just as well as it does with a circular saw now. I don't have a plunge router, which would make this a lot easier, but it will work with a fixed base router.

As long as you have a long enough straight bit, once I had the circle cut in the bottom edge rounded over, I moved on to cutting my base. Now everything is cut from four by fours and at a 45-degree angle and I'm doing half-lap joints on the top and the bottom X braces. This is all really simple to do with a circular saw and it comes out with a really clean result. You just take multiple passes at the same depth and then use a hammer to knock out all those loose pieces. Then you get a sharp chisel and just clean everything up and once you have one piece done, you do the same thing to the opposite side of the receiving piece. Once it's all cleaned up, do a dry test fit without any glue. You want to make sure that both of your pieces meet really flush and that all of your corners are really square once you know it's all good, you can take it back apart, add glue and attach it permanently, and once I had the bottom x, brace all Done I did the exact same process for the top X brace as well. I wanted a little bit of extra strength where my center beam met my 2x braces, so I drilled a hole and inserted an inch and a quarter dowel in the center of each one.

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Then, when I cut my center beam, I drilled a receiving hole in the center of it as well. Then, when I put them together, they would have a little bit of extra surface area to meet and it would just make a lot stronger bond. It also helped line everything up. Next, I cut and drilled one-inch holes. That would be my recess for my hardware in each of my corner braces, then I could go ahead and glue pre-drill and screw them together. Now I needed a way of hiding my hardware and that's what that initial recess is for. I can plug it up with a dowel and no one will ever see it, plus it kind of makes it look like. I use the dowels joinery, which is cool and, if you're wondering how to find the length of braces to cut first you'll just find the center line in your intervene. Then you'll mark another line, the opposite distance away on your X, brace then the hypotenuse between those points is what the length needs to be. So with all that figured out, I could go ahead and attach my top X brace the same way as I did.

The bottom, then I could flip it over and install all of the corner braces and while I have a second, I should go ahead and mention that if you plan on building this project, make sure and check out the written article link in the description. It'll have a lot more information, as well as written supplies and materials list as well, so be sure and check that out. So I went ahead and sanded everything up to 220 grit and brought it into my garage. The brush is a lot smaller than my shop, so it'll be a lot easier to heat, so I can put on the finish and I'm starting with a Minwax pre-stained wood conditioner. Now, what this does? Is it soaks into the wood and allows the stains that penetrate more evenly and helps to prevent getting that blotchy? Look what you get sometimes when you use pine next, I'm going to follow that up with some special walnut stain from Minwax. I've used this on a few projects before, like my barn door, and I really liked how it came out, so I'm going to use it again and finally, for a clear coat, I'm going to be using polyacrylic by Minwax. I have never used this before, but I'm really excited to try it out. Supposedly, it has a really clear finish and with just a few coats, it is done so don't forget all of the finished products, as well as everything else to build.

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