Tanya Blevins Dining Table November 08th, 2018 - 03:06:23
The seats, we'll see part one of how I made those seats, just the frames and the legs and the painting process and in part, two we'll see how I made the top from the recycled brush box turned chair legs and a Block from Hammersmith now, I'm just having to cut them down by 25 mils because these are coffee table legs and they're a little bit too tall for a chair to cut the original tabletop here, which was really nice, select road, clear point no knocks in it anyway. So I'm reusing it ripping it down and straightening the edge here because when you rip a big piece like that, you end up not being so straight, so I'm straightening it and then going back under the table saw moving some stuff around cuz. My workshops tiny and I'm ripping that down to make the aprons that I need to join the bench seats together and it's working out well because the rest of its gonna be used for another project.
Okay, what you're sending you to do here is flatten one face on the jointer, I'm going to flip that and whining degrees. That'S it there and straighten flatten and square up one edge. You have the opposite face, I'm just making parallel to the face, so just straightened on the jointer, so they are square straight and flat on three sides: replacing one edge, cutting up the final length here on the drops or 10 by 8 piece, a loose tenon joinery 2 in each Royalton leg and stretch Oleg connections, first, a strong dust extraction, you name it whatever, but no I shouldn't. This is good enough. I could use pocket screws, but I don't want it to break in about two months. Hence I'm using those tenants now. This is the final step in the milling process I'm forming the bead to match the existing table and it's a two-step beating. You can do it the way, I'm doing all the other way around slo-mo action baby, where you cut the beat first and then the round over or the round out, first and the beat. So you do the beat in this position.
Then you lower the bit like this and do the round over, so I'm just going to start prepping the legs and stretches for their finish. The finish is gonna be off-white chalk paint and I'm gonna distress it now to distress it. We need a darker color underneath, so what I'll be doing is I'll be staining these with black Japan before I put them together, the stain doesn't affect its ability to glue for paint or varnish wood, and then, when I paint it, I'm just going to sand it On the edges and stuff and the blacks going to show through, they think I look really really cool. But I do have to say people that I often see, especially on YouTube people making projects and staining the wood like I'm doing now and corn. Without a finish guys and girls staining is not finishing, staining steps. One of about three all you're doing is changing the color of the wood, but you're not actually putting a coating of any sort on it seriously.
Now we don't have to get it everywhere without too precise. All we're going to do really is just get every leading edge and corner like these edges here in here, and maybe some on the bolt here, because they're the areas that are gonna come up straight away when we've seen after it's being painted. So I was sort of doing it like this with a paintbrush and found a gamma around. It was a lot better and then I bought a really good quality of the brush like this and that makes things better, but it was still extremely difficult and then I thought well. I had a light. It's been pretty slow. This would be much easier, but I don't - and I can't what I do have as well if you have these a 60-mile, but I cut the head off the drill bit and the drill. Now we get out a little can of nescience finest]. It's just so easy. I could do this all day. I actually have to do this all day